JAPANEXILE

Decided this was too long for one post, so now I will present to you the exact same previous post - but in three parts!

Snow festival weekend! In the space of three short days I was privy to three separate snow festivals in various parts of Hokkaido, starting with Otaru on the far northern coast, moving south to the main event, the Sapporo snow festival, and finally home to Toya, for a a slightly smaller but still entertaining event. Otaru was a previously famous fishing centre, and is still famed for its Sushi and just generally being an interesting place to go. I didn’t actually know much about the festival itself before going - candles was the only explanation I had been given. The preceding Wednesday I had unfortunately made the error of eating a twice defrosted burger and then spend the next 24 hours being violently ill. Although by the Saturday I had fortunately all but recovered, my obvious good health was not enough evidence for the powers that be in Toya. Apparently there was a risk that I had a virus and would go around infecting children - whilst I can understand during the work week - where I actually do spend a lot of time with kids, I didn’t really have much intention of socializing with infants on my weekend away. So the logic behind their argument of why I had to come back to Toya on the Saturday evening didn’t fly well. The Sapporo snowfestival is world famous, hundreds of giant and often complex sculptures made from ice and snow line odori park. This year is probably the only opportunity I will ever get to see it, so in the end I was forced to argue back, and in the end, I was able to go fortunately. This also touched on perhaps the greater issue of should the Board of Education have any say in what I do in my free time. I don’t mind a certain amount of interference and mothering - its quite nice to be looked after at times! And they do admittedly give us a lot, but even so, my time should be my time in my opinion. But coming back to the snow festivals.

On the Saturday Craig & I actually went to Sapporo first, had a brief look at the snow sculptures whilst waiting for Cori to arrive who had come up on a different bus. Once Cori arrived we decided to go over to Saturn land first. An area of the festival a 30min bus journey out of town. The main attraction being a giant ice slide - which had sounded pretty cool. A cool it was, although we didn’t actually have time to slide down it. Seems plenty of Japanese people also thought the giant slide was pretty cool and were far more willing to wait in line than I was. We only had time to go through the ice maze in the end, would have been nice to try all the other activities on offer, but we were supposed to be meeting Yuko, Hiromi and Setsuko over in Otaru at 1pm.

We didn’t make it there for 1pm. The bus journey back to Sapporo station was slower than expected so we missed the train.It was at this point we thought up of an ingenious plan for me come back to Sapporo instead of going straight home. Basic idea was, leave my bag in a locker in Sapporo station, then only realize what I had done once arriving in Otaru, necessitating a return to Sapporo. The Toya crew agreed, but not on the timing issue, they thought it better to go straight back then and come back to Otaru - missing both festivals! Madness! So that didn’t happen and I had to force the issue, which I wasn’t proud about doing, but it was necessary.

Setsuko used to live in Otaru I believe so she gave us a whirlwind tour of the area. Starting off with a brief spot of sushi. I’ve been amazed by how little sushi I’ve eaten since I’ve been out here, only a handful of times so far. Stuff from the convenience store just ain’ that good and is expensive to boot. And anytime I am in the city with someone something else also takes precedent, like having an all you can eat and drink option, which sushi bars are not famed for. After lunch we wondered through the streets after Setsuko eating any free samples we came across, having a look in some glasswork shops (another thing Otaru is famous for), and finally ending up in music box shop. Which was pretty interesting. Haven’t actually mentioned the festival part yet so should probably do that. The local residents carve out hollows and generally reasonably basic shapes out of the snow lining the streets and roads and place candles inside, which all light up to beautiful and magical effect. Particularly nice was the canal, with many thousands of candles floating on it. It truly did look beautiful, though I’ve realized this post isn’t really conveying that too well so will try and put up a load of photos of it. About 7pm Craig headed back to Toya with the rest of the crew whilst Cori and I went back to Sapporo to actually have a proper look at the snow festival. (And only looking at the snow festival, no drinking allowed remember, even if this probably was the busiest – and potentially the most exciting, weekend Sapporo has in the year.)

Not remotely related to the snow festivals. Mainly just an explanation of why Setsuko used to live in Otaru. Her husband is a teacher. Teachers in Japan don’t get to choose where they work, they are told, at which point they need to up and move to a new place, often great distance apart. So Setsuko has seen a far bit of Hokkaido. I think you live in each place for only a few years. Was wondering if this would work in England – somehow I doubt it.

This entry was posted on Sunday, April 27th, 2008 at 9:18 pm and is filed under Japan. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.